Masan Holi: Embracing Life and Death in Varanasi

Holi, the vibrant festival of colors, is celebrated with great enthusiasm across India. However, in the spiritual city of Varanasi, the festival is observed in a way that is deeply symbolic and mystifying. Known as Masan Holi, this unconventional celebration takes place at the famous Manikarnika Ghat and Harishchandra Ghat, where death and life intertwine in an extraordinary manner.

What is Masan Holi?

Unlike the typical Holi festival, which is marked by bright colors, water balloons, and music, Masan Holi is celebrated with ashes from funeral pyres. The ashes, collected from the cremation grounds, are smeared on the faces and bodies of devotees instead of the usual colored powders. The celebration takes place in and around the ghats, which are ancient cremation sites along the banks of the river Ganges in Varanasi.

A Celebration at the Cremation Ghats

The ghats of Varanasi are sacred sites where the deceased are cremated, and the practice of Masan Holi takes place right at these revered locations—Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats. These ghats are deeply connected to the Hindu belief in moksha (liberation), as it is believed that dying in Varanasi and having one’s body cremated here frees the soul from the cycle of rebirth.

Instead of playing with colors and water as is typical during Holi, the devotees use ashes from the burning pyres, symbolizing the transient nature of life and death. The festival invites participants to confront and embrace the idea of death as a natural part of existence.

The Mythological Connection

Masan Holi has its roots in Hindu mythology and is closely linked to Lord Shiva, who is believed to reside in Varanasi. According to legend, Lord Shiva is associated with cremation grounds, spirits, and the Aghoris—ascetics who renounce worldly pleasures and live on the fringes of society. Shiva’s followers believe that by playing Holi at the cremation grounds, they honor the deity and invoke his blessings.

The festival is thought to be a way of pleasing Lord Shiva, and devotees believe that even the spirits of the deceased and their ancestors partake in the celebration. This gives the festival a profound spiritual significance, emphasizing the belief that life and death are interconnected.

Embracing Death as Part of Life

In many cultures, death is something to be feared and avoided. However, in Varanasi, death is not seen as an end but as a transition to another form of existence. Masan Holi challenges traditional perceptions of death, inviting people to face it with acceptance rather than fear. The act of using ashes, a direct symbol of the deceased, is a way to transcend the fear of mortality and accept death as an integral part of the cycle of life.

By celebrating Holi with the very remnants of the dead, participants are reminded of the impermanence of life. This act of smearing ashes on each other symbolizes the acceptance of both life and death, encouraging people to see them as two sides of the same coin. The festival becomes a powerful meditation on mortality, liberation, and the passage from one life to another.

How is Masan Holi Celebrated?

Masan Holi typically takes place a few days before the main Holi festival. The celebrations are most vibrant around the Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats, where the cremation pyres are continuously burning. On the day of the celebration, devotees, sadhus (holy men), and locals gather at the ghats. They chant the name of Lord Shiva, sing devotional songs, and dance in a trance-like state. As they dance and sing, they smear ashes from the pyres onto each other’s faces and bodies. This ritual symbolizes a profound connection to the cycle of life and death and is believed to purify the soul.

The atmosphere at the ghats is both spiritual and mystifying. Amid the sounds of the chanting and the sight of the burning pyres, participants engage in the unusual and intense celebration, embracing the deep spiritual significance of the festival.

The Spiritual Essence of Masan Holi

Masan Holi is not just a festival of color; it is a festival of thought and reflection. It serves as a reminder of Varanasi’s spiritual depth and ancient traditions, which view life and death as interconnected. For many who participate, the experience is transformative—a reminder that life is fragile and that death is an inevitable part of the human experience. The festival encourages individuals to live with the awareness of their own mortality while celebrating the continuous cycle of life, death, and rebirth.